A groundbreaking study tracking the journey of second-hand clothes from Sweden to Kenya disproves the widespread belief that Africa is a dumping ground for used garments. The research shows that exporting second-hand clothing supports sustainability, strengthens the circular economy, and benefits local communities.
A comprehensive new study conducted by IVL Swedish Environmental Research Institute and commissioned by Humana Lithuania explores the path of used textiles from collection and sorting in Sweden to their resale in Kenya. The findings reveal that this system delivers substantial economic, environmental, and social value, directly countering claims of waste dumping in African markets.
Focusing on Kenya’s mitumba (second-hand clothing) markets, the report analyzes the sustainability of the second-hand clothing (SHC) trade, including the logistics of exports, the legal context, and quality control practices. It also sheds light on the dynamics of Kenya’s SHC market and its socio-economic effects, including job creation and economic stimulation. The study finds no evidence to support the claim that low-quality garments are being dumped in Kenya.
“The mitumba market in Kenya is a clear example of a well-functioning circular value chain in practice, and exporting unusable used textiles would not make economic sense — no evidence was found in Kenya that supports this claim,” said Amanda Martvall, textile expert and co-author of the report. “Instead, specialised sorting centres carefully grade and categorise garments by quality and type, adding value at each stage and ensuring that only marketable clothing reaches new users. In contrast, the rise of ultra-fast fashion and the accelerating consumption of new clothing is deeply concerning. This is where fundamental change is urgently needed.”
The study highlights the organised, detail-oriented process behind the SHC trade. Used garments are manually sorted, inspected, and graded at Humana Lithuania and partner facilities around the world. Trained professionals ensure that only items with resale potential are exported to Kenya.
“Our operations are specifically designed to ensure only quality textiles that have market value are exported,” said Orjan Osterdal, CEO of Humana Lithuania. “This methodical approach benefits both the environment and local economies, clearly dispelling the dumping myth and underlining the importance of the trade for a truly circular textile economy.”
Key Findings from the Report:
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Dumping isn’t economically viable: Kenya imposes high import taxes on second-hand clothing, accounting for about 40% of shipment costs—or approximately EUR 0.62 per kilogram. The idea of exporting clothes for disposal through landfilling or incineration would be financially irrational.
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A sophisticated local market: Retailers like Baltic Textile Trading (BTT) and Think Twice in Kenya employ strategic pricing models that encourage garment reuse, showcasing a high level of consumer awareness and market sophistication.
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Job creation across continents: The second-hand clothing trade supports employment from sorting facilities in Europe to retail distribution in Kenya.
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Humanitarian benefits: In Europe, much of the SHC sorting and resale is managed by social enterprises and charities, with profits reinvested into development and humanitarian projects in the Global South.
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High standards in sorting: In 2024, Humana Lithuania’s centers in Vilnius and Oman processed about 38,000 tons of used textiles, including 11,000 tons from Sweden. These are sorted into over 400 distinct categories by quality and market demand. Only clean and wearable clothes are sent to Kenya.
The study emphasizes the essential role that African markets, such as Kenya, play in global sustainable textile management. It also illustrates how meticulous sorting and grading processes in Europe contribute to affordable clothing access, small business growth, and employment in Kenya.
“Export markets like Kenya play a crucial role in European textile sustainability. Without these markets, many reusable textiles would inevitably be incinerated or sent to landfills due to limited recycling infrastructure in Europe,” said Mathias Gustavsson, co-author of the report.